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Malaysian Business, Mar 1, 2009 by Andrew Ponnampalam

NOBODY REALLY KNOWS WHAT Orville and Wilbur Wright each wore when they conducted mankind’s first motorised flight at Kitty Hawk over one hundred years ago. Some research might unearth the fact that those two pioneers of aviation probably wore their normal working clothes during their amazing aerial experimental breakthrough. Early aviators, however, had different ideas. Leather was the name of the game, from thick leather jackets with woollen collars to thick leather gloves and even sturdy leather flying- helmets, over which were worn clumsy aviator goggles. Thick trousers and strong leather boots were also de rigeur for pilots, navigators and anyone who clambered onto the old propeller aeroplanes. The first women who flew were similarly decked out in garb largely indistinguishable from their male compatriots.

It was only after Word War One that things began to change. With the birth of commercial aviation came the introduction of flight attendants in the 1930s, on such airlines as KLM, BOAC, Pan Am and United Airlines. The air-hostesses, as they were often called, invariably seemed to wear long shapely skirts that reached down to their calves, matching blazers and smart girl-guide-type of caps. The men who ventured into the airborne service industry have always worn dark pants, light-coloured shirts and blazers in the airline’s livery colours.

Today, security and safety concerns are key factors in the design and style of cabin-crew uniforms, although fashion reigns supreme. The uniforms of pilots have stayed largely unchanged in the half- century or more of commercial aviation, with black suits and gold braid remaining the norm.

What about passengers? In the early years of commercial aviation, only the rich and powerful could afford to fly, and they did so with pomp and ceremony. Formal suits were the norm, for both men and women. Even as recently as the 1970s many people would specially tailor suits for their first long-haul flights, and wear them when boarding aircraft – even in the hottest and most humid tropical airports. With the growth of mass travel, however, in-flight clothing became more casual. The emergence of low-cost carriers in the 1990s has also made flying a mundane mode of transport available to practically everyone, so the question of clothing hardly arises. People now simply wear what is most comfortable for them, or convenient for their schedules.

The most distinctive wardrobe revolution in aviation, however, seems to be taking place in the front of the aircraft, or on the upper decks. It is in First Class and Business Class that dressing has changed significantly. From designer suits and patent-leather pumps complete with expensive attache-cases, affluent frequent- flyers are now opting for maximum comfort and productivity. Baggy shirts, bare feet and PDAs are commonly seen in the expensive sections of long-haul flights, with the motto of the savvy air- traveller being, `Comfort and convenience are first in fashionable flight!’

The big business in aviation apparel comes from the attire sported by the cabin crew – flight-stewards, air-hostesses, in- flight service staff, or whatever you choose to call them. The first stewardess uniforms were designed to be durable, practical, and inspire confidence in passengers. As the role of women in the air grew, and airline companies began to realise the publicity value of their stewardesses, more feminine lines and colours began to appear in the late 1930s and early 1940s.

Some airlines began to commission designs from high-end department stores and still others called in noted designers or even milliners to create distinctive and attractive apparel. As more Asian countries began taking to the skies, national costumes began to take off the runways. Until today, the stylish batek sarong kebayas of Malaysia Airlines and Singapore Airlines are still delighting air travellers around the globe, while sexy traditional cheongsams, bouffant hanboks, flowing saris and baggy salwar kameez grace the aisles of Asian carriers. It soon became very obvious that the clothes worn by the cabin crew significantly affects the image of an airline – in fact, it even has a distinct effect on how passengers perceive the in-flight service!

The costumes or uniforms worn by the cabin crew on a commercial aircraft really do create a vivid and impactful image of the airline and its corporate identity. With this in mind, more and more airlines are turning to world-famous fashion designers for inspirations of in-flight clothing, giving a whole new meaning to the term `fashion runway’. In the world of haute couture, the world naturally turns to France, and the national flag- carrier certainly has an impressive portfolio. In the decades since its inception, Air France has used the services of a glittering galaxy of legendary fashion stars, including Christian Dior, Nina Ricci, Marc Bohan, Jean Patou, Rodier, Carven, Georges Rech, Hermes and Louis Feraud.

However, even this fashion doyen of the aviation world took a full 17 years before introducing its current range of aviation attire. In case you get the impression that designing uniforms for the cabin crew is just glamour and glory, the real deal is much more complicated and technical